Texas Boots

Category: Western Boot Construction

  • Goodyear Welt in Western Boots

    Goodyear Welt in Western Boots

    A Goodyear welt is a specific method of construction used in footwear, including western boots. It’s known for its durability and resoling capabilities. Here’s a breakdown of a Goodyear welt in western boots:

    • Welt: A long, thin strip of leather that sits between the upper (the main body of the boot) and the outsole (the bottom of the boot)
    • Stitching: The welt is stitched to both the upper and the insole (the inner sole) which creates a strong connection
    • Resoling: Because the welt is separate from the sole, a Goodyear welted boot can be resoled multiple times, extending the life of the boot significantly. This is a major advantage compared to cemented soles which cannot be resoled.

    Why Goodyear Welt for Western Boots?

    • Durability: Goodyear welt construction is a time-tested method that creates a very durable boot. This is important for western boots that may be worn for work or riding.
    • Resoleability: As mentioned earlier, a Goodyear welt allows for resoling the boot when the sole wears out. This is more economical and environmentally friendly than having to replace the entire boot.
    • Comfort: While Goodyear welted boots can have a break-in period, once broken in, they can be very comfortable due to the flexibility of the welt construction.

    Not all Western Boots are Goodyear Welted

    There are other construction methods used in western boots, such as cemented construction. Cemented boots are generally less expensive but cannot be resoled.

    western boot diagram

    Finding Goodyear Welted Western Boots

    Many high-quality western boot brands offer Goodyear welted boots(no. 14 in the above diagram). Look for this information in the boot’s description or on the manufacturer’s website.

  • Cowboy Boot Heel Styles

    Cowboy Boot Heel Styles

    Heel styles can be for comfort or function and sometimes just for the look!

    If a there is a significant use of a horse to do your job then a riding heel will make a difference in your feeling of stability in the saddle. The riding heel enables a solid lock on the stirrup with less likelihood of slippage.

    cowboy riding heel
    cowboy riding heel
    cowboy riding heel
    1 5/8 ” with spur ledge

    Those tall heels can be hard to walk in for long periods of time. Therefore the “walking” heel is seen more often in western boots commercially available today.

    1 1/38 stacked western boot heel

    The cowboy walking heel is shorter than the full riding heel giving some compromise.

    The Roper walking heel is a simple 1 inch tall

    roper walking heel with slant back

    You will see this in another standard walking heel at 1 1/4 inch high with a straight back.

    straight back 1 1/4 ” fowler heel

    What you use your boots for will likely dictate your heel preference when choosing work or outdoor boots.

    However all bets are off when choosing the heel for your dress boots!

    Apply any of these styles to your choice of boots to go out steppin’ around.

  • Cowboy Boot Toe Styles

    Cowboy Boot Toe Styles

    When you are looking for a pair of cowboy or cowgirl boots the toe style is pretty important. What toe you pick depends on the statement you want to make or the work you need to do in your western boots.

    As a kid I only remember a couple of styles of toes on boots. They haven’t changed much but we really didn’t have a snip toe western boot. The closest boot with a snip toe was the old Dingo boot with the broad square toe. I don’t remember dingo having any other kind of boot. A squared off toe with that buckle and strap. Dingos were more of a style all in of themselves. The wide square toe has made it’s way into the mainstream and can look great. I am glad that the decorative buckle and strap didn’t make it into cowboy boots though.

    wide square toe

    the modern snip toe is much smaller, clipped closer to the end of the boot. I like the ones that look like you took a “roach killer” pointy toe and just snipped off the point. This one is more of a medium snip toe but it is close.

    Snip toe

    Some folks like a really pointy toe for dress boots. I tend to agree. they look pretty good and when else are you going to wear a pointed toe boot? Certainly not to work in for 14 hours a day!

    point toe

    If the pointed toe is a little to squeezed for you then you can back off that style a little and go with the a narrow round toe. It looks great on any dress boot.

    narrow round toe style

    Far and away the choice for the everyday working boot is the medium round toe style also called the roper toe.
    Comfort on the long days of wear as well as functional for getting in and out of stirrups.

    medium round toe

    These are the basic toe styles for western boots. You can find variations in between especially if you go custom, but you will recognize style fairly quickly regardless.

  • Western Boot Construction

    Western Boot Construction

    When was the last time you looked at what a cowboy boot was made of? Never? Well here is your chance.

    What you see below is a typical manufactured boot diagram. However custom boots will have many of the same components. Watch out for plastic shanks, paper rands, plastic in the heels and inferior leather lining in manufactured boots.

    Among custom bootmakers you will find differences as well based on personal style and technique preferences or a desire to adhere to the techniques of a specific time period in bootmaking. A good custom boot maker will not use nails to attach the heel.

    western boot diagram

    1. Beading
    2. Scallops
    3. Pull Straps
    4. Lining
    5. Front Quarter
    6. Back Quarter
    7. Side Welt
    8. Top Stitch
    9. Vamp Fitting Stitch
    10. Vamp
    11. Wrinkle Stitch
    12. Toe Box
    13. Counter
    14. Goodyear Welt
    15. Insole
    16. Steel Shank
    17. Rand
    18. Outsole
    19. Outsole Stitching
    20. Heel Base
    21. Heel Cap
    22. Heel Pad